It took me less than five minutes to weigh and bag my battered and bruised vegetables and to get my bitter lemon, but it took me thirty minutes to pay for them. The queue, or as Americans call it the 'line' was a total nightmare. We will call them lines here. The lines at each till, were at least twenty people long. Each checkout till was divided by barriers. People stood in line with their metal shopping baskets on the floor, each time the line inched forward, people would push their basket with their foot along the floor to move down the line in the blind hope of reaching that Nirvana, the checkout till and freedom.
A woman with a bright gold coat, purple finger nails and yellow trousers stood next to me. She looked like so many stereotyped Russian women here, she looked like a woman not sure what outfit to wear when she got up in the morning or what fashion decade it was, so simply put on something of everything and went out. She hovered next to me scanning each line, waiting to jump in, waiting for her moment. I guarded my spot like wolf in the snow protecting his meat. After about ten minutes I snapped, my British constraint all gone, with a bony finger, I bravely tapped her on her gold shoulder and said in the only Russian I knew "HeT". She replied back "No" and stood her ground completely ignoring me. Eventually, after some time, she jumped in the other line next to me. The person in the line behind her said nothing and gold coat woman advanced in front of about ten people behind her to pay for her food, no one said a thing. Life went on.
I could feel my blood boiling as I stood in my line, listening to the constant but very annoying slow bleeps of the checkout till, bleep, bleep, bleep. These supermarkets bleeps, sound like an old tennis computer game form the 1970's. I spotted another woman in the far distance in front of me in my own line, she was speaking to a person in the line. Then to my total horror, she then just went in front of me and everyone else behind her. I can only compare waiting in line (queuing, spellings vary) in Russia to be like their driving on the roads. Lane and line respect have very little meaning. Share lanes, share lines, share beds, share wives. Why wait behind the person or car in front of you? Just go in front. No one will mind.
When I eventually reached the woman at the checkout till, I felt like a man who had just won the lottery. I wanted to shout at her 'put the food in the bag now woman!'. Typical of my luck, the paper till roll ran out so she disappeared for about three days to find another one. The checkout woman then returned, she slowly put on her glasses and blindly swiped my meat bread rolls several times that I had paid for before from the bakery below but had forgotten not to put them in with my other shopping. When they failed to produce a price, she looked up at me like a a wife who does not want to give a blow job but still continued to swipe the bread rolls, hoping to see a price come up, she reminded me of a zombie sheep. I think if I did that kind of job all day I would become a zombified sheep as well. I snatched the rolls from her and with shaking hands, I put them into my plastic shopping bag, paid in cash and left the shop screaming like a gay man at a wedding.
In some ways, I admire these Russian people, in my own supermarket experience here, they don't seem to get angry and just accept people jumping in front of them in food checkout lines with an almost blank, depressive acceptance. If this happened in my own country, in the much bedraggled and down beaten United Kingdom, people would get very angry, fights would break out and people would be punched or stabbed. Not so in Moscow, adapt, accept or die.
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This has been the most amazing thing to me since moving to Moscow-- the acceptance of cutting-- it is the strangest thing. They all want to cut, but don't mind being cut. It is so counter productive. Typical Russia, right?
ReplyDeleteIn a different lifetime my husband and I ran a village shop - if anyone had to wait more then 2 minutes to be served heads would shake, tutting would start and impatient to get off to their important business of the day the correct money would be flung on to the counter and the customer would march huffily out ... I would see the same people stand for 20 minutes in a supermarket queue!
ReplyDeleteI have night terrors thinking about grocery shopping in this country. I have lived in many countries and have never seen anything like it. You describe things in such great detail! One tip we learned was to arrive at the Auchan when they open at 7am. Getting there takes less time and the mad rush hasn't begun yet. The downside to that is having to get up early on a weekend morning.
ReplyDeleteI also have a question for you. My husband are celebrating our 10 year anniversary tomorrow night. We have a babysitter for our kids and are really craving some Indian food. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.
I heard aroma is good and the Tahj Mahal try this site I don't recommend the forum at all but this page is useful: http://expat.ru/restaurantguide.php?sect=16
ReplyDeleteGreat read! I'm spoiled in this country. If there are more than two people in line at our supermarket checkout counters, they get on the PA system and call various people to open new stations. They always have an express checkout open for people with less than a dozen items. Most supermarkets have a dozen or more checkout lines. They know their customers are impatient and intolerant. We Americans are spoiled. Breaking in lines doesn't happen much around here either. People don't accept that and will protest it. Depending on where one happens to be, it could be dangerous.
ReplyDeleteI have recent experience of this problem as I live in Russia and have just returned from holiday. Through experience I have a plan. On arrival at departures I briefed my girlfriend to take our youngest child and run of the bus, I will bring bags. On arrival of she runs. When I arrive at the departure hall she is stood at the end of the longest queue. With sweat dripping down me carrying bags for three adults and two children I ask her why she joined this queue. She said "You said run to the queue and stand in it." My girlfriend is Russian and I do believe that queuing is natural for Russians, they see and stand. There are six check ins and a row of fifteen people tailing into three lines. We are stood behind a single guy and within 30 minutes and some air kissing seven people have now joined the queue in front of me because of this guy. I can only guess they all met on some excursion to a temple and now they are blood brothers and have the right to queue jump. I now have sweat of anger on top of the sweat of exercise. To top it all one of the check in desks stopped working and an entire queue stepped sideways into the queue next to them. It was classic queue acceptance, no one complained.
ReplyDeleteSometimes I test myself and let it happen. It is a game, control temper karma will be good to you. If I am at an airport leaving Russia I never let it happen, seconds are precious, I cover my angles. A shoulder here, strategic bag angle there, left or right foot step and a back block. Seven years have made me good, but sometimes I get beaten.
Hi, English Dad, whatever you describe in your blog is so, so true! I am Russian myself but have lived in London for 5 years now and have kids and stuff there. My husband now works in Moscow as an expat and I have no choice but return to Moscow to spend some time with him here. We have Perekrestok supermarket down here and I already have deep enemies at the tills. Check out ladies say no hello, no good bye and are scared to even have eye contact with a costumer, not mentioning the smile. It's so depressing. And I am also annoyed by all this fruit and veg weighting system. Once I put one lemon on a scale and asked to put a sticker on it without bagging it. A woman who weight it looked at me suspiciously saying "What a nonsense! They are free here!" I politely replied "Yes, but I am thinking green when asking to do so". She suddenly dropped everything and left the till angrily commenting her gesture "I am so annoyed with you, clever bustards. You think we are nothing here. Weight your veg yourself now!" And I swear by God she left! I stood there, not knowing how to reply and wondered to myself why she took it so personally. You can wright books about shopping experience here in my own country. It's such a sad thing! And the most surprising thing is that all muscovites I know do complain about the service issue here but do behave exactly the same way when it comes to dealing with their costumers. Vicious circle.
ReplyDeleteArina
Hi Arina
ReplyDeleteI am so pleased to hear a Russian agree with me. Did you read any other posts and maybe sign up to follow the blog?
Thanks.
Sure, I like your blog a lot! I have to admit I even recommended it to one of my English friends as I was run out of words and emotions to explain and describe what hectic Moscow is like and how sad I am to experience such a cultural shock when coming here. In your blog you've done it all on my behalf and in such a funny way. All is left to me is nodding my head agreeably adding "yep, that's right" :)
ReplyDeleteThank you for your patience to Russian's infirmities though.