May 08, 2011

On a Sunday afternoon

Abramtsevo is worth visiting if only to hear the sound of birds singing and to smell fresh air. The place is an eighty minute train ride from Moscow. Again, as per our last trip, the train is rough, basic but cheap and gets you there and back on time. Going there we were offered a variety of goods while on the train.  I must say I like the Russian style of business in the efforts of people to sell you stuff while you sit on a train. We were offered flower bulbs, garden cutters, Cd's, a magic sponge that could 'remove any stain', train timetables and a man with one arm played the guitar. We gave him money and bought the magic sponge. These sales people and performing singers helped pass the eighty minute train journey. It's a pity we don't get these train sellers on trains in the United Kingdom it would make journeys a lot more interesting.

We went to Abramtsevo, after reading about day trips in the Moscow News. This is a free advertising newspaper written in English. When you arrive at the station, walk down the platform, cross the rail line, making sure a train is not coming, walk over a bridge and follow the road down through a small forest to the main road. As we walked through the forest, I noticed tons of rubbish (trash) that had been dumped by the side of the road. It mostly consisted of empty and broken vodka and beer bottles, what I call 'Russian nature art'. I know dumping rubbish in nature areas is not unique to just Russia, it happens everywhere but I cannot understand why people do it and it makes me really angry. My anger slightly subsided when I breathed in teh fresh air and heard the sound of birds signing, I felt relaxed. Better than any beer could ever do and a lot healthier. Once you get to the main road, after walking through the forest from the train platform, turn left and walk down the main road and up to Abramtsevo. Be careful as the road as no pavement (sidewalk) as you walk up. Abramtsevo is at the top on the right, there are no signs to say which way to go or even any sign to say it exists. Abramtsevo is a kind of private garden with houses within it that was once used by Russian artists in the 19th century.

Before you go into Abramtsevo, have lunch first. I recommend you arrive there at about midday and go to a restaurant called Galerya you won't have much choice as that is the only place to eat. Galerya is situated on the right of Abramtsevo, down a road. I had a very good Cesar salad and a delicious mushroom soup. The waiter bought the salad first and then later the soup. Then he bought my wife's soup fifteen minutes later fater she had watched me eat my soup. Three things to get used to in Russia. One, in some restaurants they tend to bring the food as it comes out of the kitchen, that fact that you eat soup first and then a main meal (my large salad) is unimportant to the waiter and to the cook in Russia. The second thing is, Russian soups are very tasty and I think Russians specialise in making all kinds of soups. The third thing is, a salad may not be a salad as you are used to with lettuce and salad stuff, it could be a mixture of things drowned in thick mayonnaise.  The hotel opposite the restaurant is not cheap and will cost about six thousand rubles for a 'standard' room, be careful of the definition of a 'standard room' before you book a hotel in Russia. The hotel looks good but like many things here, it is very over priced.

Abramtsevo, is worth seeing and is the perfect nature tonic from Moscow living. Our entrance tickets cost five hundred rubles. I have noticed that in Russia, they have a strange habit of selling entrance tickets with separate prices for each museum house/hut. They don't generally sell one ticket for all things within the museum area. I expect their sales logic is that it gives people a choice but they are not making as much profit at they could in their ticket sales. It's also rather annoying as when you get inside, you see a charming house/hut that was once 19th century washroom for example, you go up the steps and are met by a grumpy old women who won't let you in because your ticket does not include that house/hut! You can only enter where you have paid for that house/hut (museum attraction). Since you don't know what everything is like inside until you get inside, you won't know what you want to see until you get into the museum area. I hope I make some sense?

The gardens of Abramtsevo are worth walking around, although I would not say the artists huts are very interesting but there is nice small church within the grounds. Walk through the forest, see the big lake, listen to birds, smell the fresh air and return back to smoky Moscow feeling a little bit more relaxed than when you left it.

Note: Restaurant Galerya has kids high chairs for eating but no baby changing area.

Photos:

Abramtsevo hut
Abramtsevo church
Abramtsevo lake



10 comments:

  1. Have you ever made photos of places where you'd been? It will be interesting to see the picture of things which you are talking about :)

    At Russian museams there is also habit of making tickets for foreigners more expensive than for locals. Not everywhere, but at excibitions, for example, or at Ostankinskaya tower. I haven't seen such practice in Europe. I was amazed that in London the entrance ticket to most museams for students from any country is free. In other places ushers sold me tickets for children, which were twice cheaper, despite the fact that I was sixteen, and they knew it)

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  2. See photos of Russia click top right of home page. Click on any text in blue and sometimes there are photos. I can't put photos on the pages as it slows down the loading.

    One ticket for everything would be a lot easier but to have a miserable women in each room or hut to check your tickets creates employment but is very annoying for the tourist.

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  3. Very good post, and I know it might slow down load time but I agree with @katillo pictures would be worth it.

    I imagine Russian trains are equally as old school as Polish ones, to be honest I prefer rail travel in Poland over U.K. hands down.

    Over Christmas me and my wife went from Birmingham to North Wales and it cost us nearly 200quid. We can both get from Wrocław to Kiev and back for cheaper in Poland.

    Was anyone selling beer on the train? That's the most important thing for me :)

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  4. No beer but lots of other stuff. The trains here are cheap but very metal and basic. Train prices in the UK are total con.

    I put pics on the "photos of Russia" tab. The text in blue often has a photo link to photo bucket as the pics are remote and not on the blog page.

    Cheers.

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  5. They used to sell beer and ice cream, but now it's prohibited. Anyway, you always can buy beer near the station or even on the station and drink it with pleasure in train :)
    English man, everyone wants more photos =D

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  6. The hut is amazing! I always wondered how did they do such beautiful carved patterns. Do you know that in former times this patterns were colored brightly? The whole town with such huts should have been magnificent!

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  7. Oh, I understood why you are not enjoying Abramtsevo in the way it must be enjoyed! You must not know that tones of Russian national masterpieces where painted there. The best thing to do was to go to the Tretyakov's gallery first to see most of them and make a trip to Abramtsevo right after. Have you had a research about who and why was painting there? Who where those artists? Oh, I'm so sorry you went without a certain knowledge, I'm not surprised you've seen nature only. Too bad...

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  8. I enjoyed Abramtsevo but was not impressed by the tour system. I liked walking round the gardens and seeing that little white church. Its a good way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Your idea is god Ill go to that museum.

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  9. There is no tour system. Big tourist's buses come their with their own guide (or take one from Abramtsevo). If you are all alone it means it's your job to read before you go (it's common in Russia, don't be surprised). I've seen only one museum here, that is somehow comparable to British museums (big IMHO) - it's a Paleontological museum (still no maps, audio-guides, proper English translations). Our museums have no money and government support for wax figures as an ordinary Canterbury museum or GB castle with all beautifully printed brochures and etc.
    Haven't you been at Tretyakov's gallery before? ??? I'm shocked...

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  10. Masha I meant the system of letting you see the huts as when you pay to go in you have to say what you want to see although you dont know what you want to see till you pay !!! .....Yes I have been to the Tretyakov's gallery but after I went to Abramtsevo rather before I went to Abramtsevo!!!!! Stupid I know!! :-(

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