If you are thinking of moving to Moscow. Don't do it! Only joking, do it, but do it very carefully, research it on the Internet and research it by reading such wonderful blogs like this one. Find out as much possible before you hit the yes button to move here. I will try to offer my own experience and opinion of Moscow. Remember this is only my opinion and others may not agree with me, get a balanced opinion not just mine.
Before you move here, think about where you want to live and how you will afford it, look at 'Google Maps' to get an idea of the areas and city layout. If you are being sent here by your employer or your partners (wife's/husband's) employer, make sure you have an excellent remuneration package. This will include some or all of the following: free or subsidized rent, a driver, reimbursed moving costs, children schooling costs, free flights and full medical insurance. If you are moving to Moscow to work as a teacher, make sure the school is respected, official and trusted. Make sure they provide you with a flat and with a visa. Never accept anything unless its in writing. A persons word is simply not enough nowadays.
Most 'expats' live in and around, the center of town in the first ring. The city is made up of rings. Most, if not all 'real estate' agents (US terminology) will show you the most expensive areas. This is because they know that many expats have their rent paid for. This is happening less now but still happens and has pushed up the price of rents for all. If you want a two bedroom flat in and around the center you will need a budget from about 2,000 pounds to 4,000 pounds per month! (this price is only relevant as of today's date!). Russians are obsessed with saying every flat you will look at is at "western standards" and that it has new windows. This translates into its a semi to 'normal' flat with 'UPC' (plastic windows). Its a bit like saying my shoes are made in Italy and so what!
You will be shown flats that have an awful exterior and a nice interior or the other way round. You will be shown flats with strange colours, layouts and furniture. Russians decorate their flats for letting according to their own taste, rather than in white and neutral colours and you may not be allowed to put any of your pictures on the walls. Be warned, you will be horrified by some of the flats you look at or you will be totally amazed at the crazy layout and decor, I saw one flat with a pattern on fried eggs on the walls. Russian landlords don't generally like pets. They see it as their flat and you as the guest, while happily charging you exorbitant rents. They key is to negotiate the rent, even if your employer is paying the rent. Never pay them what they ask for. My own flat, has mirrors on the bathroom ceiling and an 80's style kitchen and bathroom. We pay over 2,000 euro which is very cheap for the area, we insisted on the rent price being fixed, be tough or walk away. There are many agents here and they tend to be a bit arrogant in the behavior and in their dealings with foreigners. They often hire students or ex language students who speak good English, so communication will not be an issue if you don't speak Russian. I refuse to advertise any real estate agencies here but email me if you need any list of the good, the bad and the ugly.
The agents gets one months rent and the landlord gets one months rent in advance. This is an unfair system to you the renter, since the agent will want to the rent to be as high as possible so they get the most money. You will want to be near to a metro as driving in Moscow in the week is a no no. It's slow and very painful, taking hours to travel any short distance. The metro is cheap and fast but can get crowded at rush hour. Many expats in high ranking positions, have their own drivers and because of this, many Russians will assume you will have your own driver. Make sure your employer arranges all visas for you as doing it on your own will test your sanity to its absolute limits.
Moscow is big, mega big with mega roads, its more like a giant concrete car park. There are many green parks nested within the traffic and many shopping centers to choose from. Be careful of wild dogs when walking in a park as they have been known to attack and even eat people. If you like jogging, do it by the river or join a gym it will be safer.
You will need a car to allow you to do a big shop once a month to stock up on food etc. Its better to have a car even if you only use it at weekends to go to one of the many food shops like the French food chain Auchan for example. These big food shops will save you money, rather than buying things often in the small local shops in and around the center of Moscow. There are many kindergartens in Moscow of different quality, some registered some not and off the official radar. Prices are high, so look around for the best deal. If your employer will pay childcare costs, then you will have nothing to worry about. Life in Moscow is hard, dirty and expensive.
There is a lot to see here and great giant communistic Stalinist buildings that will amaze you, they look like they have come straight out an old 'Batman' movie and Gotham city. You will be able to escape the city at weekends but leave early in the morning to avoid the heavy traffic that clogs all roads into and out of the center of Moscow. You cannot drink the public tap water and will have to buy bottles of water or hire a water machine getting those large office water bottles delivered to you each month. You will need roughly four bottles a month for three people, more if you are four and so on. Delivery men rarely have change and cash is king, so make sure you have the correct money when paying in cash for home deliveries. Delivery times promised are 'ball park' times, so be ready to be kept waiting. The main Internet provider here is 'Stream', its good and fast. Don't use any other.
There are many private medical centers some charging hundreds of euro just for a ten minute consultation or for medication. If you have a social conscience, shop around, as high medical claims will push up insurance premiums for all. Visit them and talk to them before you select one as your main health care provider. Get their price lists to get an idea of charges. If they can't or won't give you a price list, walk away and find another clinic.
Moving to Moscow, will be a shock, unless you come from a big city in your home country. Even if you do, you will still need to mentally adapt to the Russian ways of doing things and to Russian idiosyncrasies. It will take time and practice. If you have children or have any breathing problems like asthma, I don't recommend you staying here longer than a two to three years. In fact, I don't recommend anyone to stay here longer than two to three years, simply because of your health and your wallet. Eating out is expensive and the food is generally average and sometimes even good! Service can be slow and waiters rude.
In my own opinion, Moscow is a great place if you are young, single and with money. You will have a great time here. Russians are generally friendly and like children. There are of course, many bad guys here and crooks and a lot of corruption within every orifice of Russian daily life. If you are not a criminal and do not do business with such people, you will be safe and will probably have no problems, Moscow is as safe as any other city, although there are a lot of drunks and beggars. I lived in a small city before moving here. I did my research before coming but still found it very hard to adjust to life here. I personally don't like it here and intend to leave as soon as circumstance will allow it. I have visited many places outside of Moscow that you can read about on this blog.
Moscow is not Russia. Get out of Moscow as often as you can by flying out or visiting the Russian countryside, there is a lot to see, but ancient monuments and churches have mostly been left to decay, so see them while you can, while they are still standing. You will need to refresh your mind and body as much as possible. Get it in and get out and see it as an experience. Having said all of this some people love it here.
Good luck dear reader in your possible move to Moscow.
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Agree with you on all points. I want to stress that it is very important to get out of Moscow/Russia at least once in a couple of months.
ReplyDeleteMy 2 cents... Living inside garden ring (even inside "third ring") is not really a wise choice, simply because it is expensive, lacks infrastructure and too crowded. There are many really nice areas in just about half an hour commute from downtown, much cheaper, safe, clean, lots of shopping centers and cheap shops around (including Auchan), parks and other places to go. Apartments rental will be 2-3 times less than in the centre. Foreigners charged more, because there is still a stereotype that all foreigners are very reach. When renting an apartment have someone local (someone from the company you work for or maybe just a friend) to speak, look and negotiate with the owner.
ReplyDeleteYes, in general Moscow is very expensive, but majority of locals make their living on a relatively small salaries, because they know where to go and not overspend. Advise: get in touch with locals, good people who speak English and can share information and give advise. I have the feeling that information circulating inside expat community is very limited. Good luck :)
Many expats have to live in the center because they work in the center. If you any further away you have crippling travel times bu car or by metro so its a case of being damned whatever you do. The sooner these urban myths about foreigners as all being rich are killed the better IMO.
ReplyDeleteI just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to put together helpful information on Moscow! Due to my husband's work, we will be relocating to Moscow from Canada with our 2 year old daughter early next year. We had to decide pretty quickly, so we have been doing a LOT of research online and that's how I ran into your blog.
ReplyDeleteWe are well travelled and I am originally from a big city, but we are pretty nervous about the move....it seems like we can't be prepared enough for all the changes! You probably understand what I'm talking about. It's so nice to hear what someone has to say, especially someone with a child, so thank you again for your blog. I will probably write to you again with a few questions if you don't mind.
Happy to help just email me and I'll try to help.
ReplyDeleteDon't worry it will be OK since you seem to be doing your homework before moving here which will ease the change.
I agree with the first speaker - you don't have to live within a "garden" or even a "third transport" ring. Just rent a flat close to metro station on the line where your office is. There are no good or bad districts in Moscow - you should choose the building itself. New developments with guards in the lobby and in the parking lots are preferred. Modern 2 br flat in a new development outside the 3rd transport ring will be about US $ 2000-2500.
ReplyDeleteIt was nice to read it. I am born and raised in Moscow and agree with every single word in this article! I feel the same as a citizen :)
ReplyDeleteMaria