October 03, 2010

Izmaylovo market , Moscow

Izmaylovo market is a large open air market situated near Izmaylovsky Park. The nearest metro is Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya. I last went there when I was based in Moscow about ten years ago. It has changed a bit and become a bit tacky and touristic. It used to have a lot more real hand craft and hand made goods for sale. It now has mountains of wooden Russian dolls, copied Cd movies and military goods for sale. I went there today with my family. If you go there in the winter, wrap up warm as it is rather damp. I don't know if it used to be a marsh or swap area, but it is a lot more humid than elsewhere in Moscow and the damp penetrates through to your nether regions like an unwanted rash. Wear warm socks and take gloves or take a flask of Vodka to warm your parts.

As you enter the market, there are Cd's for sale and painted boxes and Russian dolls but go further on up the blue steps and you will find a variety of old stuff, from real antiques, paintings to total junk. Most of the Sellers speak some English and will quote you some outrageous prices, simply because you are foreign and they try their luck, genuinely believing that some people really are stupid enough to pay them what the ask for. They are not unlike the many real estate agents that work in Moscow, when they ask their outrageous rent prices. Sorry I digress.

I had a look around the market today, carrying my son on my shoulders and could feel my lower spine turning to dust, the only thing that kept me going through the pain as he wriggled and screamed was the thought of a hot kebab. As we both waited for my wife to tear herself away from buying yet another shawl, to add to her four others that she already has at home, a man blew his nose in a long stream onto the pavement, his green snot hit the ground with the noise of a rotten pear hitting concrete, this is one of the main things that I hate about Russia, this outdoor habit, what happened to handkerchiefs or tissues? I fought hard to block this image from my mind as we made our way to the kebab stand. About six men stood in a line, wearing white chefs coats over their winter costs, bent over charcoal cooking meat on sticks. You can get lamb, beef, chicken, pork or fish. Its rather tasty but a bit small for a man of my size, and being the pig that I am, I usually buy two when I eat at Izmaylovo .

You will need about four hours to look round but be careful if you buy any what you believe to be old Icons as they may not be old and if they are old, you will not be able to take them out of Russia if they are over one hundred years old. This is because of Russian custom regulations. I think Russian regulations should be a degree topic, they are so complicated and very annoying.

Izmaylovo market is well worth a visit and a good way to waste time on a Sunday. You will have fun looking round it but as I said before dear reader, wrap up warm and negotiate on your prices, never pay what they ask for.

1 comments:

  1. I've remembered funny story. I've been to Kiev at such market. You know, souvenirs are exactly the same: wood dolls, Icons, military stuff. of course there are something typically Ukranian, but I want to tell you about another souvenir. Maybe you've seen it: an egg with some crystals and fake gold imitating Faberge eggs? Seller wanted for it 250$. His argument was handmade and real diamonds. Even that guy who wanted to buy it laughed at such high price) Anouther seller have 5 000 - year shark tooth.

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